◆Living Fossil
The oldest buildings in the village are situated on Xiaolongshu Mountain. The 24 houses that were built jointly by 24 families have already survived more than 270 years. They were built in the original Tuzhangfang style with neither courtyards nor windows. The enclosing structure of the houses is reinforced with rammed earth. With the population growth, the village expanded down the hill and to the north. Over the years, the architectural style evolved with the introduction of the Han culture and building techniques. The resulting fusion of styles is the “stamp” style layout featuring one principal room, two wing rooms, one screen wall facing the gate of the house and a patio for light. Walls facing the patio are built with wood with windows cut out. The houses built in the newer fashion retain the natural elements of the earthen dwellings of the Yi ethnic group, and roofs still form joint platforms, but life in newer homes is more comfortable. Later, buildings with sloped roofs and curved eaves, more obviously influenced by Han architecture, started appearing.
The largest building in the village is the former residence of General Li of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Its typical Tuzhangfang layout features three stories of main rooms, two stories of wings, and a wooden gate with octagonal overhanging eaves. The gate, doors, windows and eaves are all painted and carved with dragons and phoenixes.
Since the late 18th Century, with greater numbers of Han and Yi people living together, abodes in the village have gradually adopted a fused architectural style of both Han and Yi. While Yi style appears bold, solid and unique, the Han flavor tends to be more delicate in carving and layout. Tuzhangfang buildings retaining more of the Yi’s outer appearance with interior design of the Han are living fossils of the history of Chinese residences.
◆More than a Village
Every event leaves a mark on the wheel of time, whether it is a high-profile landmark or a vague secret humbly preserving little-known stories.
Over the millennia, several regional kingdoms were established in Yunnan (a hot tourist place for China best tours ), but very few people know much about Ziqi Kingdom, an ancient state that lasted only 160 years. According to research, Chengzi village was the epicenter of the state. Extant records about it document fragmented stories of caravans on the Silk Road (Silk Road tour)and how the city was defeated by Mongolian cavalry in a battle.
Originally, Chengzi was named Baishao, after the tribe representing the ancestors of the Yi. In the late 15th Century, tribal leader Ang Gui relocated from the Luxi county seat to Baishao Village, and changed the area’s name to Yong’an Prefecture. This move stirred the growth of the village, making it one of the political, economic and cultural hubs of southern Yunnan. The small village expanded into a prefecture of more than 1,200 households and many impressive buildings. Built on a mountain with solid city walls, lofty towers and a heavily fortified city gate, the forerunner of Chengzi Village was a large fortress known far and wide in that era. But unfortunately, most of the buildings were destroyed by imperial forces battling the rebellious tribe. After the chief was killed, many residents fled, and the imperial government dispatched immigrants to replace them, as well as stationing troops and building watch towers, barracks and other military facilities. The result of the takeover is the village’s present-day layout that provides convenient living and defense as well.
Today, visitors are drawn to the unique cluster of architecture and the history it preserves. Time seems to stop when one glides through the stone roads in the labyrinth of Tuzhangfangs. In harvest season, golden corn and fresh red peppers hang from the eaves and earthen walls. Young villagers busy themselves drying grain in the sun while seniors sit and chat as they watch children play ¨C a pastoral scene indeed. The village’s past glory may be gone with the wind, but scenery and its story remain as attractive as ever.
So if you are interested in the history and culture here, you should consider it in your popular China travel package.
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