As we moved toward the independent region hugged by the rest of China and Mongolia, the landscape took on a multitude of forms and colors from dark green mountainous ranges in the north of Beijing to fields of aligned trees some hours in. And eventually, toward the end of our bus journey, our driver took us through radically unpopulated areas with the only sign of life taking shape in the occasional red-brick house and herds of sheep and sometimes horses, introducing us to Inner Mongolia from our bus window, presenting us views of large, dusty sandy dunes where we even sighted camels.
Finally, as we approached our first destination for our summer China vacation deals, Xilinhot, with an elevation of more than 3,000 feet, I could feel my heart pumping faster, excitedly, as we were welcomed by this energy cluster with giant fields of wind turbines. The sky had turned yellow while dark clouds suddenly inched in above the city and it began pouring rain without another warning. We stayed overnight in the character-lacking center, just long enough to rest up for another bus ride the next morning, which took us another 160 kilometers to our final spot, Xiwuqi, literally translating as "west wu flag."
After the last two-and-a-half hour leg, we were anxious to set out on foot and leave the wheels behind. With over 72,376 residents, Xiwuqi is rather spread out, sitting proudly in the middle of Inner Mongolia's prized grasslands. Far from what I expected though filled with empty steppes, like those I had seen in pictures before arriving, I marveled at the scenery that surrounded me as I stood in the village amid the endless horizon of grasslands.
I managed to find one English speaker, who suggested I stay at "Tent City," a sort of hotel in the grasslands. As it turned out, Tent City was a group of some 20 tents in the midst of a plain of lush greens, and each of them appeared surprisingly modern, like a comfortable version of the traditional yurt. Despite hoping for a more rugged experience, I asked if they had space for me, but when the lady scribbled down 300 yuan ($43), I quickly turned around and continued down across the road, where I found a "khan" or camp with six authentic-looking yurts. I showed the household head a bit of paper with the prepared Chinese phrase, "Can I sleep here tonight" A smiling man ushered me into a rounded five-meter-wide dwelling supported by wooden poles that enabled easy dismantling; it seemed that the moveable tents were well-suited to the customary pastoral livelihood of the people here.
My yurt was cozy. Red carpets and a small table with a few wooden furniture fixings and delicate paintings completed the family photographs that made the place a real treasure in the middle of this idyllic location. Visitors here are invited by flat plains on each side and rolling hills in the distance.
A small lake and hundreds of sheep, horses and cows could also be seen closer by from my yurt. The scene urged me to embrace the nature around me. On my walk in a nearby pasture were men racing their horses while others were taking part in "bkh," a traditional form of wrestling.
When I returned, the entire family was gathered around the "dinner tent." In contrary to the slight apprehension I had felt about what would be served, the food was delicious. Locally grown greens, potato soup, raw cucumber and leeks were joined by mutton, a staple of Mongolian cuisine.
Unlike my European peers, Mongolians are much less picky about what they eat, leaving no part of the sheep's meat to waste. If the vegetables were carefully picked up with chopsticks, the meat was left to the company of washed hands, which held up the bones that were gnawed on with much anticipation. With an abundant quantity of Mongolian milk tea, made with sheep milk, leaving a salty rather than sweet taste on the tongue, the dinner, in which Mongolian was the predominant language, with only some members of the family having a grasp on Putonghua, proved a delicious feast after a tired popular China tours, though quite challenging as a Chinese-language beginner.
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After the photo shoot, a couple with a young child and some relatives who had been visiting drove off in a pick-up truck. As per the usual day-to-day routine, the head of the household and his wife along with their two sons stayed behind in case some tourists came wanting lunch. The extended family living in the grasslands, a few cousins and sisters and their families, share the area and though quartered in separate yurts, divide all the meals and cooking among themselves. The men are responsible for going out in the fields to care for their livestock, and also make the kill when the sheep meat runs out. Venturing further out in the grasslands, I met Xiaoxue, my new Mongolian friend.
After she insisted that I join her family for lunch, we made our way over to a nearby hut-like home, a distinguished yurt, where her grandmother sat, welcoming us. An old woman with a wrinkled face and silver jewellery hanging off her tired body, she was kind and spirited despite her worn exterior that visibly revealed she had led no easy life. Her eyes gleaned warmly and she never let go of my hand, constantly ensuring that I had enough to eat, topping up my tea and feeding me more cheese before lunch was ready. She showed me where the boys were working in the field, where sheep and cows waited for us to turn on the water pump so they could wet their lips. There was a problem with the machine so we ended up manually pumping the water to satisfy the thirsty animals. Another boy, a young man perhaps, captured one of the sheep with a lasso-like rope attached to a long pole, and tied the animal down - before preparing its meat for our lunch. As a large plate of bloody meat sat imposingly on our table, the man continued to hack away at the dead sheep while two of the women busied themselves cleaning its insides out.
Mongolians have a use for every part of the sheep they kill. Sheep milk is used to make tea, yoghurt and cheese while slabs of meat are stored in fridges and divided among families. The animal's skin serves to cover their homes. And fermented sheep milk, which is a different-tasting way to get a buzz, was put back by the women after lunch as they gossiped - and made me feel like I was one of them that day.
Later, Xiaoxue must have read my mind because she took me out for horseback riding, under a sky that had turned pink after a rainstorm that had gone as quickly as it had come while we were sipping our alcoholic milk beverages. With a trained guide to oversee our safety, I hoisted myself on to a small but robust and playful snowy white gelding. Contrary to horses back home in Switzerland, Mongolian horses trot on quickly rather galloping along smoothly. The wind rushing against my face made my eyes cry and as my horse swept me away into the fields I felt exhilarated.
A trip to Xiwuqi after Xian tours is an unbelievably humble experience full of stunning views and natural beauty. But be prepared to live in simple conditions. Even in summer, the nights can cool right down and toilets behind camp areas are rudimentary, but useful for hand-washing before meals as some foods are eaten by hand. I was heartbroken to leave the family who couldn't have been better hosts. As I left, the father handed me a white scarf, a symbol of good luck and respect, while the mother gave me one of her bracelets so that I would always keep a bit of their homeland with me - "You have a Mongolian family now," she told me.
Rules of Thumb
How to go?
Regular one-hour flights connect Beijing to Xilinhot, the only airport in the region. Public buses from Beijing also do the trip to Xiwuxi, which takes about 12 hours.
A taxi is then needed to make your way to the grasslands from Xiwuqi.
When to go?
June through September is an optimal time with good weather although expect some rain toward August and September, when the landscapes are greenest. Winter, from November to February, sees snow and temperatures fall below zero.
Where to stay?
From Xiwuqi, comfortable day trips can be organized by tour groups to the grasslands. If you're feeling a little more audacious, stay with a family. Don't be afraid to approach families in yurts on the sides of the road and negotiate a price. Shops are hard to come by, so pack enough water and snacks if you think you need more than Mongolian food to live off during your stay. Obtain more others via China travel guide.
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